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Thread: Help with Router/Switch Problem

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    Help with Router/Switch Problem

    I've got Clear Internet because it's the only thing available. This is the modem.
    I've got it going into a Trendnet Switch. It had all been working great until this past week. My computer which is also working off the switch isn't giving me problems. It's working great. It's my LG TV and my Directv box which aren't connecting. Actually, they will connect for a bit if I reset my switch.

    Question is if my switch is bad? Or is there some kind of setup with my router that I can do to get it going again?

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    contact manufacture of tv and direct tech support. I am no IT guy, but they can direct you towards opening hard ports in your modem. I may be way off, but that is exactly what I had to do to get my bluray,tv, and xbox to maintain a connection for more than a few moments.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Massive Horn View Post
    I've got Clear Internet because it's the only thing available. This is the modem.
    I've got it going into a Trendnet Switch. It had all been working great until this past week. My computer which is also working off the switch isn't giving me problems. It's working great. It's my LG TV and my Directv box which aren't connecting. Actually, they will connect for a bit if I reset my switch.

    Question is if my switch is bad? Or is there some kind of setup with my router that I can do to get it going again?
    The clear link doesn't go anywhere, but is your clear modem a modem/router or just a modem? If it isn't a router, you definitely have problems (you need a router).

  • #4
    This is the link for the manual for it.

    http://www.clear.com/cms/files/8113/..._4-14-2011.pdf

    I'm guessing it's a router since it worked great for over a month. It's got $#@! I have no clue about like port forwarding and DDNS.

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    It's possible the switch is bad, but unlikely. I have 2 of those and they've been rock solid for years. Try plugging your LG/dtv box into different ports. If that doesn't help, I'd call Clear. You pay them so they should work for your money.

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    "will reconnect for a bit with switch reset" Do the devices get IP?

    "worked great for over a month" All the devices, or just the single computer?
    All worked at the same time?

    If not, then the "not a router" might be the case. I have not played with Clear. It could be the device only allows a single hard wired device, based on MAC Address. Not sure, but something to look at.

    Since the switch presents multiple MAC's to the clear device, it could be the problem, replace said switch with any router, let router get IP from Clear, NAT back to the devices behind it.

    "switches get stitches, bitches" if it is a bad switch, get another for like 15 bucks. Move on. Changing ports will test the port, if ONE of them work, then switch is probably not bad. But I have seen a single port go out...

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    Bump

    I find myself running out of LAN inputs as I slowly acquire items that require internet connections. For now, I have Uverse but will be transitioning to Suddenlink’s 1 Gb plan once my contract is up. The equipment I have and will be using is SURFboard SB6141 modem with a Linksys E1500 router. What is my next step to add additional inputs? Talk to me like I’m stupid and please give any recommendations on equipment needs.

  • #8
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    Buy new gear. Seriously.

    Sb6183 or 6190
    Rt ac88u or similar



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    Or just get a cheap switch for $6 from net gear or something. But don't bitch when your paying for gigabit speeds and your performance isn't anywhere near that.



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    Quote Originally Posted by handcruser View Post
    Buy new gear. Seriously.

    Sb6183 or 6190
    Rt ac88u or similar


    Damn. Didn't realize my $#@! got outdated so quick. That RT is a nice router but damn expensive. Are switches and access points interchangeable? What I though about doing (if I could access it) was to run a line from upstairs (router) to a switch in the office or master closet where I would keep my home security, hue, etc items.

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    Yeah you can do that.

    How big is your house?



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    2 story; 3800 ft^2

    My next question is -- are switches all the same? I can just go out and buy a 5 channel, 8 channel, whatever switch from x-company and performance will be similar?
    Last edited by Spur08; 01-08-2017 at 08:54 AM.

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    Also, forgive the question, but what Cat cable should I run to the switch?

  • #14
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    I'd run cat6.

    As far as the switches, any consumer product should work fine. You might consider one with PoE capability for future proofing.

    Also figure out if you need/want a managed switch which allows you to prioritize the traffic.

    Plain Jane switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A1...XoL&ref=plSrch

    Managed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003K...g4L&ref=plSrch

    PoE: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TM...gigabit+switch

    None of these are necessarily a recommendation....just some examples of options. Switches are pretty cheap, and tp-link makes some good ones.

    Of concern mostly would be your hardware in use right now. Moving to gigabit service and then being immediately throttled (both inbound/outbound as well as your LAN) is going to yield less desirable results.

    Additionally that's a big house. I'd really consider multiple access points, perhaps a mesh network by google or ubiquiti or something. Rage or Francisco should be along shortly.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Spur08 View Post
    2 story; 3800 ft^2

    My next question is -- are switches all the same? I can just go out and buy a 5 channel, 8 channel, whatever switch from x-company and performance will be similar?

    Spur, grab a cup of coffee. This will be an in-depth read.


    I have a similar structure to you. ~4k sqft, ranch w/ a walkout basement.

    The best bet overall is going to be wiring as many connections as possible, which will keep your wireless space available for devices that really need it.

    Running CAT6 is not difficult, but it can take some patience. Terminating that cable is also not difficult as long as you pay attention to what you are doing and don't rush.

    First, figure out how many drop locations you need initially. At the very least you will want a drop spot where every cable outlet is, and more. Note: you will run 2 (if not 4) drops per location. I ran 2, which is adequate, but you can run a 4plex if you want.

    Now that you know where you want drops, it's time to figure out what is going where. We'll call the location where the modem and router are at 'Home'. Now, you can run all your drops back home, or you can segregate areas of your house and run one line to a switch that services one particular area. You can also do a combination of both if it makes sense.

    You're going to need the same number of ports regardless, so what going from home to different switches does is save you some money on cable. I bought a 1000ft box of CAT6 for $160-$170 IIRC.

    Most things you run will not need PoE (power over ethernet), but the access points I'll list in a bit will. PoE switches are more expensive, so figure out what you need PoE for and how many connections before you over spend. (Security cameras can use PoE as well.) PoE is a good thing, and better than mucking about with running power AND data separately.

    Another thing to consider is what exactly will be running and when. Take an entertainment center/console/setup. Let's say you have a TV, DVR, media player (roku, appleTV, fireTV, etc), blu-ray player, and a game console. That's already 5 connections, but they are in basically the same spot. My recommendation for this is you keep it to the 2 (or 4) outlet drop, but use a non-managed switch within that spot and connect it all to that. It's not like all those devices will be using the network at the same time. You can aggregate other spots in the same manner, when possible.

    Now for the general network you could do two switches per floor. Depends on number of drops (x number of cables per drop) and how many ports you would need. If I put 2 drops in every room (except bathroom) on my upstairs I'd have 16 drops (32 cables). The basement would need 12 drops if I went full out (24 cables). Remember to subtract 1 from whatever the switch lists as number of ports as 1 will be to connect back to home. So a 16 port switch will give you 15 device ports. This sucks ass when you're running locations in pairs. So you'll have an extra port.

    Now let's look at gear.

    Modem: Motorola Surfboard, whatever the latest and greatest is. Make sure it can handle the high bandwidth (Docis 3 or something like that.) Double check with your provider on what modems they allow.


    Router: Ubiquiti EdgeRouter, EdgeRouter Pro, or EdgeRouter PoE
    https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter/ (~$275 +/-)
    https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-pro/ (~$325 +/-)
    https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-poe/ (~$150 +/-)

    Which router you get depends on your ports and switches and how much you need to connect. For example if you have 4 switches running home, that's 4 ports. That fills up the EdgeRouter PoE (5 ports total), and leaves 2 on the EdgeRouter (or Pro).

    Depending on number of Drops, you may have to combine more connections through switches. (Stuff that is low traffic makes it easier to combine as they won't be using a ton of bandwidth anyway.)


    Here's what I recommend for an unmanaged gigabit switch: Netgear Prosafe 16 Port Gigabit Switch

    This is about your best bang for your buck. You could bump up to a 24 port, but it doubles the price.
    8 port: $68
    16 port: $93
    24 port: $187

    For cameras/access points you would need a gigabit switch with PoE (make sure it does 24v and 48v). When in doubt, look at Ubiquiti gear.


    Access Point(s): Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Pro (~$150, give or take)
    https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-pro/

    Accept no imitation. This mofo is one bad sum bitch. Not sure how your house is laid out but I can't see you needing more than two of these, one for each floor. I'm only using one right now, since I haven't got down to renovating my basement on the list yet. That said my single AP is in the middle of the main floor and I have coverage everywhere in the house without issue. Range on the AP is supposed to be 400ft, but that will be under ideal conditions. I'd plan on 200ft by the time you go through walls and whatnot. Centrally located should suffice, and if positioned right you might not need more than one.


    The ubiquiti gear is absolutely awesome. It's business class at an above-average consumer price. Some of their stuff can get expensive, but the size of things for a typical house is very attractive. For performance, you can't beat it.

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    Thanks for the help. When I switch services next month I will upgrade the modem. I'm doing a little more research to try and understand what needs to be done, but I think this might be the layout of my network.



    Edit -- Just saw and currently reading thunder's post
    Last edited by Spur08; 01-08-2017 at 11:21 AM.

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    Well, after reading Thunder's post it looks like my plan is way off. Seriously, thank you for the break down of information as it's really helpful. A few follow-ups questions -- Is it best to put the wifi router in between the modem and switch or the switch in between the modem and router? Also, does the ad for cat6 cable below seem legit? 1000 ft for $75 (monoprice cable).

    http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ele/5935705050.html

  • #18
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    Help with Router/Switch Problem

    Thunder is proposing running drops to various area of the house. It's not a bad thing, but you might not need to do that.

    Tell us where your stuff is. You might be able to get away with running a drop to your tv area downstairs, adding a switch, and utilizing some ubiquiti products for wireless. If so you don't need 1000 feet of cat6.


    Last edited by handcruser; 01-08-2017 at 12:41 PM.

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    Internet access (modem, router)-- game room upstairs (PS4, XBox, SmartTV, Arlo security cameras, wifi exHD). Edit -- I might be able to access the back wall of the game room via the garage attic space. If so, I would fish the wires through the garage space into the master closet.

    Master bedroom (downstairs, wall might be accessible via attic)-- AppleTV.
    Master closet (Attic entrance) -- Thinking about putting smart home devices here (Arlo, Hue hub, maybe security system when I decide on one)

    Office (downstairs and shares wall with master bedroom) -- Firestick, laptops, printers, scanners, etc. I currently have no ethernet access in here.

    Living Room (Downstairs) -- FireTV. I'm not sure if this space is accessible. If it is it would be on the opposite side of the house from the master closet entrance and would transition from an attic space to a crawl space. The entire master quarters is 1 story with the rest of the house 2 story.




    1 master closet, 2 office, 3 gameroom
    Last edited by Spur08; 01-08-2017 at 01:01 PM.

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    That sounds like stolen cable, or something shady.

    Here's a crude, basic drawing of a full layout with room to spread out as needs change and keeps you from going back and redoing things all the time. Number of drops/devices can change this, but I went with a full-blown deal that can be paired down if needed.




    Internet to modem, modem to router (port 0)

    Now, I drew this with 2 main switches, each having 2 zone switches. The mains could be 4 port, whatever. You could use one 8-port instead of 2 mains, etc.


    The zone switches need to have enough ports (combined) for all standard wired devices. (Not talking about AP's or cams, just the normal drops.) You can have small switches (I have an 8-port in my entertainment console, for example) where you have a bunch of devices in one spot.

    Those zones feed back to the main switch(es), which feeds back to the router.


    For Access points, this will depend on how many AP's you want/need. I'd start with one, and you can add another if you need to. If you can put it in the center of your house, you should be alright. Even in the yard. The AP's are PoE. If you use the PoE router I listed above, plan on 2 ports for AP's to be safe. This leaves 2 ports for the main switch(es).

    If you go with a larger router (and I don't see that really being necessary) then you would need a PoE capable switch.

    Now if you go adding cameras later, you really won't have much of a problem. Depending on the system you look at, of course. The few I've looked at had their own switch with PoE off of their DVR. That then hooks to your network with one cable and not one per camera.

    How and where you put things would be up to you. Depends on how your house is laid out, etc. Mine was actually pretty damn easy as I could run most of the drops without much effort, thanks to part of my basement being unfinished storage.

    For yours it will be different, but still shouldn't be bad. You'll need power for switches, but that's about it.

    From the sound of it, and your drawing above, I'd go with the EdgeRouter PoE.

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    Something I should mention as well with regards to drops and locations. If your house is set up and you're not moving things or rearranging things then you can get by with running he drops you need now. Might cut some out, and save some ports. You can go back later and add more if need be.

    I'm mobile now, but will be back with a tool list of really, really handy things you will want and need.

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    Here's some items you'll need. I linked to amazon so you can see what they are, but you can buy locally from any decent electrical shop, home depot, whatever.

    crimp/strip tool

    low voltage mounting bracket

    wall plates

    CAT6 female connectors

    male connectors

    greenlee auger bit (1" x 72")


    That last one, the auger bit, if you don't have one you'll be cussing up a storm. The one I linked is an inch wide, but depends on how many cables you're running through a hole. If only one or two you can go a little smaller. I'd have to look at mine, can't remember if it's 5/8 (I think it is) or 3/4. It's good for 2 or 3, but I put 4 through one hole and it was a bit tight.

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    I have one follow-up question. Is all this pointless if the data line bringing the internet into my house is a spec less than Cat6? Home built in 2005

  • #24
    you want cat6 so that it doesn't have to be rerun when internet gets faster. also, you want cat6 because you'll find yourself with more internal traffic due to security cameras, plex server, etc. on top of internet traffic.

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    Quote Originally Posted by elfenix View Post
    you want cat6 so that it doesn't have to be rerun when internet gets faster. also, you want cat6 because you'll find yourself with more internal traffic due to security cameras, plex server, etc. on top of internet traffic.
    This.

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    I know that I want cat6. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I have no idea what was used to rum the original data line at the box when my house was originally built. So, if it's not cat6, then would I be wasting money to upgrade a lot of my equipment to cat6 tech?
    Last edited by Spur08; 01-11-2017 at 04:38 PM.

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    Absolutely not.

    You probably have copper to the premise, which is fine. Someday it may be fiber, and that is fine too.


    Now you want the "pipes" in your house to be as big as possible. This helps for file transfers between nodes, for example, or for those times when you have 2 computers downloading OS updates while 3 other devices streaming HD content.

    Plus CAT6 is rated for 10G, so when that eventually comes around someday you'll be set. You aren't going to save but maybe 5%, if that, and the headaches aren't going to be worth it.

    Now if you want/need to cut back a bit, we can reorganize some of that gear and save more by doing that instead.

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    As already said, the backbone(the wiring) is really the most important part. You can always upgrade hardware but re-pulling new cable will be a bitch. Also, while you are at it, go ahead and go for the Plenum cable, rather than Riser cable, little added expense per foot. It is a little harder to work with but the critters(mice, squirrels) do not seem to like chewing on it and also it is not toxic in case of a fire(melts rathers than burns).

    Since you are a rookie at this, I would suggest the EZ style connectors, something like this http://www.techtoolsupply.com/Produc...kEgaAnCM8P8HAQ. Then you will just need a set of diagonal cutters, something like this https://www.adafruit.com/products/15...mWgaAvJu8P8HAQ should work. You probably can find all these in your local Home Depot or Lowes.

    I spent 20 years terminating CAT3, CAT5, CAT 5e, CAT6 and fiber(and a bunch of older types of network cabling). I used more professional tools and parts but those listed above should do the trick for any home install.

    I will leave any hardware recs up to someone who has kept up with the latest, as it has been several years since I was doing network hardware.

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    You may want to also purchase a cat6 tester to make sure you terminated your cables properly. Especially if using PoE.

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    Just a reminder to those of you with Cat5e who think you need to replace $#@! for future proofing....Cat5e can handle 10Gb speeds up to 147 feet, so unless you live in a $#@!ing warehouse or pimp mansion, you probably won't have a single run over that.

    And affordable consumer devices that support 10Gb are still a ways off. While Gig NICs are pretty cheap and somewhat standard on newer PCs/laptops, other devices (Roku, AppleTV, Cable STBs, etc.) still get shipped with 100Mb onboard ports.

  • #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spur08 View Post
    2 story; 3800 ft^2

    My next question is -- are switches all the same? I can just go out and buy a 5 channel, 8 channel, whatever switch from x-company and performance will be similar?
    Yes and no. I'm currently upgrading to a managed switch as I've set up a VLAN to isolate my guest wifi access. Unmanaged switches won't work for a VLAN.

    Got an EdgeSwitch Lite 24, if you're curious. I also have some managed TP Link gear and it's decent.

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    True that an unmanaged switch won't work for a vlan, but the EdgeRouter can handle that. The access point can also handle the guest wifi network, if desired. I don't use the guest network on mine, but it's there if someone wanted it.

  • #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Spur08 View Post
    I have one follow-up question. Is all this pointless if the data line bringing the internet into my house is a spec less than Cat6? Home built in 2005
    if you are talking about the wire that comes from "the pole" (or "the tap" for cable) then that line will be a coax cable it will not be an ethernet cable

    the coax will come all the way to your modem so the installer will be the one that checks all of your home coax to make sure it is up to standard and that there are not any $#@!ty old splitters or anything else causing interference

    and you are WAY overthinking your setup

    you need to get something like a Surfboard 6400 (or whatever works on Suddenlink) that has both a wired ethernet port (it actually has 2) and that offers wi-fi

    from there if you have an issue with wi-fi being weak in some area of your home you can look into something like a Ripcurrent http://surfboard.com/ripcurrent/ that plugs into the modem and then you plug the "extenders" into various outlets in the home where the weak areas are and it boost the signals using internet over home electrical wiring

    if you still need additional wired connections then you can have a switch out of one or both ethernet ports

  • #34
    actually for 1 gig you would need a SBG6900-AC and then something like a SBR-AC1200P for 1 gig wi-fi

    and the SBG6900-AC would have 4 ethernet ports on it and the SBR-AC1200P has 4 on it as well

    so with the SBR-AC1200P taking one port from the SBG6900-AC that leaves you with three + the four on the SBR-AC1200P for a total of 7 ethernet ports between the two devices and then your wi-fi and the ability to use ripcurrent to extend that to stop reduce dead spots in the house

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    Modem/wifi all-in-one setups are for $#@!. Maybe for some cheap-ass network, but no way for anything decent to cover any sizable house with multiple floors.

    Best approach overall for reliability and speed is still to wire everything possible, then let wifi pick up the stragglers.

  • #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Spur08 View Post
    I have one follow-up question. Is all this pointless if the data line bringing the internet into my house is a spec less than Cat6? Home built in 2005
    If you aready have CAT5E in the house and it's terminated properly and no length is more than 100 meters you should be fine without upgrading to CAT6 now. Is CAT6 better? Yes. Can you get 1 gig service across properly terminated CAT5E? Absolutely.

  • #37
    go for the Plenum cable, rather than Riser cable
    Not necessary at all in a non plenum space and it greatly increases the cost of the bulk cable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderlounge View Post
    True that an unmanaged switch won't work for a vlan, but the EdgeRouter can handle that. The access point can also handle the guest wifi network, if desired. I don't use the guest network on mine, but it's there if someone wanted it.
    Most low end unmanaged switches won't pass the VLAN tagging correctly. To have end to end containment of the VLAN, you'd either have to connect the APs directly to the EdgeRouter or have a managed switch in between. My APs have to connect to my main switch, hence the need for a managed switch.

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    That makes sense for sure. I'd love to have that level of control on my home network, but I really have no use for it with only 1 AP and maybe 2 max down the road. That stuff is fun to play with though.

  • #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderlounge View Post
    That sounds like stolen cable, or something shady.

    Here's a crude, basic drawing of a full layout with room to spread out as needs change and keeps you from going back and redoing things all the time. Number of drops/devices can change this, but I went with a full-blown deal that can be paired down if needed.




    Internet to modem, modem to router (port 0)

    Now, I drew this with 2 main switches, each having 2 zone switches. The mains could be 4 port, whatever. You could use one 8-port instead of 2 mains, etc.


    The zone switches need to have enough ports (combined) for all standard wired devices. (Not talking about AP's or cams, just the normal drops.) You can have small switches (I have an 8-port in my entertainment console, for example) where you have a bunch of devices in one spot.

    Those zones feed back to the main switch(es), which feeds back to the router.


    For Access points, this will depend on how many AP's you want/need. I'd start with one, and you can add another if you need to. If you can put it in the center of your house, you should be alright. Even in the yard. The AP's are PoE. If you use the PoE router I listed above, plan on 2 ports for AP's to be safe. This leaves 2 ports for the main switch(es).

    If you go with a larger router (and I don't see that really being necessary) then you would need a PoE capable switch.

    Now if you go adding cameras later, you really won't have much of a problem. Depending on the system you look at, of course. The few I've looked at had their own switch with PoE off of their DVR. That then hooks to your network with one cable and not one per camera.

    How and where you put things would be up to you. Depends on how your house is laid out, etc. Mine was actually pretty damn easy as I could run most of the drops without much effort, thanks to part of my basement being unfinished storage.

    For yours it will be different, but still shouldn't be bad. You'll need power for switches, but that's about it.

    From the sound of it, and your drawing above, I'd go with the EdgeRouter PoE.
    What the hell is a zone switch? Are you talking about VLANs?

  • #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by VABuckeye View Post
    Not necessary at all in a non plenum space and it greatly increases the cost of the bulk cable.
    It is not necessary for the reason you mentioned but notice the reason I mentioned. For some reason, critters like to chew on the riser cable but they stay away from plenum cable. Unless he is running a ton of runs, not that much cost increase.

  • #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXSG8R View Post
    What the hell is a zone switch? Are you talking about VLANs?
    No, it's just another switch. Labeled it that way to reflect zones covered within the house, not anything vlan related. Depending on number of connections, probably only need 2 switches, then maybe another 1 or 2 for high placement areas. (entertainment center, etc.)


    Zone 1 - master bedroom, kitchen, laundry room, living room
    Zone 2 - family room, bedroom1, bedroom2, etc.

  • #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderlounge View Post
    No, it's just another switch. Labeled it that way to reflect zones covered within the house, not anything vlan related. Depending on number of connections, probably only need 2 switches, then maybe another 1 or 2 for high placement areas. (entertainment center, etc.)


    Zone 1 - master bedroom, kitchen, laundry room, living room
    Zone 2 - family room, bedroom1, bedroom2, etc.
    Oh, without VLANs there is no logical separation of those zones other than labeling. All the ports will be in the same broadcast domain. Unless all those drop ports are really active, you probably don't even need 2 switches. Typical home traffic would never stress a switch.

    I have two 24 port switches, but that's more to do with the number of ports I have (20) and redundancy. I have my A/V rack components all plugged into one, all the ports into another. If one fails I can move everything into one (only actively using about 8 ports at any given time, plus 5-7 on the rack).

    Totally agree on moving as much as possible to wired. For cat6 I would look into the EZ jack system. Less untwist means reduced crosstalk, these connectors allow you to bring the untwist into the bed of the connector. Believe spec is .5" for cat 6. I would also use monoprice for bulk and patch cables, it's hard to find a better deal. If running cables is too hard because of layout (which is very possible with a two story) you can look into smaller switches for rooms and use powerline adapters to homerun the rooms back to the router/primary switch.

  • #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXSG8R View Post
    Totally agree on moving as much as possible to wired. For cat6 I would look into the EZ jack system. Less untwist means reduced crosstalk, these connectors allow you to bring the untwist into the bed of the connector. Believe spec is .5" for cat 6. I would also use monoprice for bulk and patch cables, it's hard to find a better deal. If running cables is too hard because of layout (which is very possible with a two story) you can look into smaller switches for rooms and use powerline adapters to homerun the rooms back to the router/primary switch.
    Great news. One of my neighbors has about 200 ft left of cat6 from a 1000 ft roll and he's giving it to me for free. Gotta smoke a brisket for that guy. Could you elaborate a little more on the bolded part above? The living room downstairs where we would pull the cable to is on an exterior wall and I'm not sure it's accessible via the crawl space

  • #45
    Quote Originally Posted by thunderlounge View Post
    Modem/wifi all-in-one setups are for $#@!. Maybe for some cheap-ass network, but no way for anything decent to cover any sizable house with multiple floors.

    Best approach overall for reliability and speed is still to wire everything possible, then let wifi pick up the stragglers.

    the riptide router is independent of the surfboard modem and the "riptide" system is a "wired" system for some parts of it

    you are running internet over your house wiring (electrical) to the wi-fi extenders to eliminate dead spots using "G.hn"

    and the surfboard modems can have up to 4 wired ethernet ports with one needed for the connection to the riptide router and then the riptide router has 4 more ethernet ports as well for a total of 7 ethernet ports for any wired needs

    if he needs more than 7 wired connections he can still run a switch off of one of the 7 available wired ethernet ports on the surfboard and the riptide router

  • #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXSG8R View Post
    Oh, without VLANs there is no logical separation of those zones other than labeling. All the ports will be in the same broadcast domain. Unless all those drop ports are really active, you probably don't even need 2 switches. Typical home traffic would never stress a switch.

    I have two 24 port switches, but that's more to do with the number of ports I have (20) and redundancy. I have my A/V rack components all plugged into one, all the ports into another. If one fails I can move everything into one (only actively using about 8 ports at any given time, plus 5-7 on the rack).

    Totally agree on moving as much as possible to wired. For cat6 I would look into the EZ jack system. Less untwist means reduced crosstalk, these connectors allow you to bring the untwist into the bed of the connector. Believe spec is .5" for cat 6. I would also use monoprice for bulk and patch cables, it's hard to find a better deal. If running cables is too hard because of layout (which is very possible with a two story) you can look into smaller switches for rooms and use powerline adapters to homerun the rooms back to the router/primary switch.

    Right. Wasn't physical separation, just for illustation and ease of discussion.

  • #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spur08 View Post
    Great news. One of my neighbors has about 200 ft left of cat6 from a 1000 ft roll and he's giving it to me for free. Gotta smoke a brisket for that guy. Could you elaborate a little more on the bolded part above? The living room downstairs where we would pull the cable to is on an exterior wall and I'm not sure it's accessible via the crawl space
    Powerline adapters will push network data over the copper electrical wiring inside the house. Its not as clean as running category cable, but if that's not an option this may work for you. So in this case, you would put one powerline adapter in the room with your router, and the other in the room you cant run category cable to. Run a patch cord from the PA to the router on one end, and a patch cord from the PA to a smaller switch (based on the number of ports you need in that room) for your devices.

  • #48
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    Very cool. I'll try to see if I can run line to that room but that is definitely my fallback plan. Shopping spree is planned for this weekend and all I need next is some downtime.

    I asked in the electrical thread but does anyone know what the going rate to add an electrical outlet is? I would like to put an outlet in one of the closets to have that as my media closet.

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    Depends on a few things. I had one ran for my bedroom for behind the TV wall mount and it ran me just under $100. That was for one of those outlets that had a built-in surge suppressor.

    Also an option would be to have the electrician run some of your drops that would be a pain in the ass. They're used to doing that kind of stuff and know all the tricks to knock it out quick. You could just have them run the cables necessary, and have them leave 2ft hanging out the wall on each end.

    Have you narrowed down a real list of drops/connections yet? If so we can better help you nail down the amount of gear you'll need and keep you from going over or under.

  • #50
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    Yes. It's still the same. I think the easy drops are the master closet, office, master bedroom. The difficult drop would be living room downstairs. Internet enters the house in the gameroom upstairs. So I would access the back wall of the gameroom via the garage attic and feed the line directly above the office for a drop. The closet would take the same route just past the office to the left with the master bedroom going straight instead of left.

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